Spanspek

Since we got to bed at 1am, the 6am wake-up was a bit rough, but apparently necessary if we were to get back to Madrid on time.

On the way, we visited Toledo in La Mancha. The old city is perched high on a rock surrounded on three sides by the River Tagus whch makes for some spectacular views... and good defences in days gone by. Ther are numerous churches, but perhaps the best kown is the Church of San Tom� which houses El Greco's famous Burial of Count Orgiz. Our guide claimed it was the third best masterpiece in the world. It is an extraordinary painting but characteristically grey (as are many of El Greco's works).

Toledo has so many churches. While we did not visit many, I felt that were we to do so I'd see more of the excessive style I've already mentioned. Still, unlike the outfits run by the Jim Bakkers of the world, you can see where the money went!

One monastery was quite striking. on its walls hang chains and shackles. These were once used on Christians captured by the Moors during the wars to reclaim Southern Spain and hung as a daily reminder of past suffering.